80/105 LandCruiser - Flipped Radius Arm Kit(RAMPT CUSTOMS)

Got a Cruiser and looking at setting up the front end? Flipped Radius arms are a great compromise to obtain the correct amount of castor to suit your lift, grab a bit more clearance under the diff and a nicer flatter arm!

This kit has been developed to use the factory radius arms, which eliminates the need for purchasing new arms as you simply install the new brackets to suit the desired castor. Whilst your welding to your housing you'd be silly to not chuck a brace kit over it as well to help give some peace of mind when belting it against that surprise rock! So the kit can also come with exactly that!

For those wanting the radius arm mounts and/or just the panhard mount, they are available for purchase as well.

Factory castor figures are 2.5-3degrees. We suggest and aim for 4degrees after the conversion.

If your not confident to fit it, we've built a jig to get it bang first go and every time!

Housings are stripped of the factory radius arm brackets, then fully blasted for ease of welding. (and easier coating later) placed in the jig, new brackets installed, then swapped into our welding jig to be welded out. Checked for straightness before and after. If slightly out after welding its straightened on our time. If the housing is a bit out before install we can sort the problem but will incur additional costs as its obviously extra time.

Exchange housings are hopefully coming soon!

When ordering this product:

Please note!

When ordering this product, you MUST measure and leave in the comments when ordering, the trim height of your vehicle. We DO NOT want to read 3" lift. Trim height ONLY!
What's a trim height? On flat level ground at ride height, measure the distance between the centre of your hub, straight up to the bottom edge of your factory guard. This will tell us exactly how much lift your car has. Please do this as its the only way to properly measure lift heights. Currently there has been more lift heights taller then what owners thought, we just want to make sure you get the best result!

If ordering Supply and Fit. We obviously need a housing a weld it all to! But also wanted to let you all know the price of it as well. Full payment up front for fitment is not required, but welcomed if desired. Please reach out for current lead times if needed. ALL housings must come fully cleaned. A small amount of residual oil in the housing is perfectly fine, but outside and on the knuckles must be properly and fully digressed and stripped of any gunk and grease before dropped or sent to us. Failure to do this will incur a $300 cleaning fee.
If purchasing Radius Arm Mounts Only, please note the cut out shape to go over the housing is only guide. The best way to obtain the desired castor figures is to set up the chassis and diff at ride height, (use the brackets as a guide to align housing) rotate diff to desired castor, then tac mounts in position.

Kit includes:

New radius arm mounts shaped to be as close as possible to suit the position of the castor for the desired lift. (For those doing the job at home, you may still need to give the mounts a very slight grind as not all housings are the same.)
Our top diff truss trimmed to mount against the new radius arm mounts. (A new version of these specific for this job are not far off.)
A new panhard mount for the diff to give working clearance off new radius arm position and help align the panhard with the drag link. Bracket comes fully welded ready to go.
Front diff guard.
Knuckle gussets.
Lower shock gussets.

Some benefits of flipped arms:

Cost effective way to obtain correct castor figures for you lift and brace your housing at the same time!
More clearance under the diff housing while playing offroad.
A flatter arm in suspension is a happier arm! This means you'll see less longitudinal movement or flex steer, as well as a freer moving arm. The best analogy with this is grab a broom handle and point it at the ground at say 30deg, then push the handle into a crack. You'll notice the handle will push back on your hand and not be as inclined to go over said crack. Do it again but with the handle at 10deg and you'll find the handle will have drastically reduced force going up the handle and will be a lot happier to essentially bounce over the crack. This is a very similar concept to what happens with the front diff when traversing an obstacle.
Castor bushes are not needed (nor should they be used) so no loss of potential wheel travel.
The change of mounting angle on the arm will also bring in some additional antidive properties. This will help reduce the front end diving hard under brakes. Will also help a little bit offroad while climbing.
With the new radius arm location it forces the need to relocate the panhard mount as the factory location will not clear the arm. This is actually a blessing in disguise as the new mounting location in our kit not only gives the clearance needed, but also helps align the panhard and drag link a lot better! This will drastically reduce the small amount of bump steer in the car, as well as a slight raise in the roll centre to aid with stability.

Disadvantages: (We wont wont tell you fibs!)

With the flip comes clearance issues. Thanks to the arm shape and new location, 30-40mm bump extensions are required to keep the arm off the chassis rail on full bump.
If you have them, the smaller bump stops under the chassis rail cannot be run.
There is no loss, but there is also no gain in flex. (not that we see that as a problem as flex does not dictate how capable a vehicle is.) If by chance you are coming from castor bushes then you this point is actually not relevant as you see the potential for more travel.
The factory sway bar is physically not going to fit back in the car with the arms on the top of the housing. There is just not enough room to allow it work.
Unfortunately our Alloy Panhard wont work with the set up as it requires a small bend to clear the new arms. We are working on a steel replacement for those interested.